Barbecue with a side of family and heaping of love
Story by Scottie Vickery
Photos by Mackenzie Free
The Shack BBQ restaurant in Talladega has won lots of awards for its smoky, tender meat and fall-off-the-bone ribs. It’s earned rave reviews in magazines, newspapers, blogs and from the many celebrities who have dined there.
But the only thing that really matters to owners Sharon and Rickey Frieze is keeping their customers – some who have been coming to the restaurant for decades – well fed and happy. “I’m feeding the fourth generation of some families,” said Sharon, whose parents opened the barbecue joint on July 1, 1983.
“We just feel so good when we see people our age bringing their kids and grandkids and saying, ‘We won’t eat barbecue anywhere else,’” Rickey added. “That makes you feel good, and it’s why we’re staying.”
Located on Stemley Bridge Road, just minutes away from Logan Martin Lake, The Shack has become a staple for lake lovers as well as locals. “The water has really helped us,” Sharon said. Her husband agreed. “It’s a world of difference between winter and summer here. People quit coming to the lake in the winter,” he said.
Folks heading to the lake aren’t the only fans, though. They’ve served celebrities like Billy Ray Cyrus, members of The Temptations, David Arquette, Bobby Bowden, NASCAR drivers, a Seattle Seahawks player, and Donna Douglas, who was Elly May Clampett on “The Beverly Hillbillies.”
They’ve got admirers in New York, Wisconsin, Texas and even France. One day Rickey heard a helicopter flying real low and went outside to investigate. “The thing landed on the grass across the street and two guys got out of it and came over here to eat,” Rickey said, shaking his head.
Sauce in their veins
It all started with a single Boston butt. Sharon’s parents, Haskell and Dot Hann, were looking for something to keep them busy after their four kids – Wayne, Sharon, Jeff and Shane – were grown. “My daddy sold cars, and my mama was going to sell minnows and fishing supplies, but they got bored. At least my mama did,” Sharon said.
A family friend, Cyril Fulmer, suggested they smoke a butt and sell it. That sounded like a good idea, they tried it, and people came back for more. They kept making barbecue, the crowds kept coming, and Haskell eventually built a restaurant out of railroad crossties that was known as “Hack’s Shack.” Not long after, he added a red antique caboose, which now serves as the restaurant’s kitchen.
“At first, all you could get was chips and a barbecue sandwich and that was it,” Sharon said. Haskell and Dot ran the restaurant, where all of the kids worked, until he passed away just over a year later at 53. Dot kept it going for six more years until Sharon and Rickey bought it in 1990. They’ve been running it ever since as The Shack BBQ. “Mom was still the head boss until she died in 1996,” Sharon said. “I just paid the bills. She was in charge.”
It’s still very much a family business. All of Sharon’s siblings continued to work at the restaurant for years, and each generation since then has come on board at some point.
“Every family member has been taught to cook – kids, nieces, nephews,” Sharon said, adding that even her niece’s 12-year-old twins help her pack up food and utensils for catering orders. “Somebody asked me where I get employees, and I say I grow ‘em,” she said.
She’s not lying. Their son, Michael, works full-time at the restaurant, and their daughter, Heather, works in a doctor’s office during the week but helps out at the restaurant on the weekends and holidays. “I made both of my children go to college and get an education,” she said. “This is a lot of hard work and dedication. That’s the secret.”
Employees who aren’t related by blood become family, as well, and some of their family members end up joining the crew. One employee, who works the front counter, was out back one day with her husband, who cuts wood for the restaurant. “I said, ‘We’re really busy, do you want to work,’” Sharon remembered. “We don’t have interviews. Either you fit in or you don’t.”
The ones that do stay a while. One of the cooks has been at The Shack for 35 years. One of the managers has been there for 40 of the restaurant’s 43 years, Sharon said. “We treat our employees well,” she said. “If they’re not family, they’re like family.”
Change is overrated
One thing that will never change is the way they cook their barbecue. “It’s all cooked out of hickory wood,” Rickey said. “We’ve been cooking here with hickory wood as long as I can remember. We stay with what we know works.”
Butts are smoked overnight for about 15 hours while the ribs are smoked for three or four. “A lot of things can change that,” Rickey said. “The temperature and how much wind there is changes how fast it cooks. You have to know what to look for and how to adjust.”
Customers can order their barbecue any way they like it. Some prefer the tender inside meat while others love the smoky flavor of the outside meat. Some want it chopped, which is always done by hand and not with a machine, while others prefer sliced. They also offer mild, hot, and sweet sauce
“Any way you want your meat, that’s how we’ll do it,” Rickey said. Sharon prefers hers straight out of the pit. “I eat my barbecue when we’re taking it off,” she said. “The scraps that stick to it are my favorite.”
What she doesn’t eat makes a good meal for the birds. “We’ve got a family of crows that love us,” Rickey said. “Everything that sticks to the pit we throw outside.”
While they’ll never change the way they make their barbecue, they have added some things to the menu over the past four decades. Burgers, hot dogs, chili dogs, chicken fingers and a barbecue stuffed baked potato have made their way into the lineup over the years.
Sides like coleslaw, potato salad, baked beans, fries and onion rings are big hits, and those with a sweet tooth can choose between banana pudding and pecan pie. Customers can also order whole Boston butts, barbecue by the pound, and slabs of ribs.
While they’ve always had plenty of business to keep them going, there have been two times they worried about the future of The Shack. The first was about 27 years ago when a fire started in the wiring of a kitchen light fixture.
At the time, the kitchen had been a room off the back of the dining room – complete with red-checked tablecloths – and the old caboose was used for storage. While they were surveying the damage, “customers started coming in the same day,” Sharon said. “One of them said, ‘Does this mean I can’t get a barbecue?’ We still had the pits, we still had meat, so I made him a sandwich,” Sharon said.
The restaurant never closed. They turned the caboose into a functioning kitchen, sold take-out food through one of its windows and allowed guests to dine on picnic tables under the trees. It worked so well they’ve kept the caboose as a kitchen ever since and the original kitchen is now a storeroom.
COVID brought another challenge. “We were scared to death, but we got the word out that if you called in, we’d bring your food out to the car,” Rickey said. “People started calling in and calling in. It just blew our minds that people were so good to us.”
A side of laughter
You can’t run a family business, Sharon said, without a lot of laughter, and they have that in abundance. “We cut up all the time,” she said. “This is our life, so we always say, ‘If we die on a holiday, just put me to the side. We’ve got customers to take care of.”
It’s not just a family joke. Haskell passed away right around Labor Day, and the family held his funeral after the holiday. Her brother, Jeff, a volunteer firefighter was killed in a car wreck in 2016 when he left The Shack on the way to a call. He died at the end of June 2016, and his memorial service was July 5.
“That’s what they would have wanted because they loved this place,” Sharon said. “The day my brother died, he had just sat and figured out what we were going to cook for the Fourth. He said we were going to sell 90 slabs of ribs that day. He was right. We sold 90 slabs.”
Over the years, they’ve had offers to buy the place, and they’ve thought about selling but just couldn’t do it. “I’m afraid they’d change things, and it just wouldn’t be The Shack anymore,” Sharon said.
“I love this place,” she said. “It’s not just the food, it’s the history. I don’t care if I lose a million or make a million, I just love the people. We hope our children and other kin people are still running it and making great memories for the next 40 years.”.
Baked Beans
117-oz can Bush’s Baked Beans
1/2 cup ketchup
¼ cup mustard
½ cup chopped onions
½ cup barbecue sauce
¼ pound chopped Boston butt, inside and outside meat
Mix all ingredients and cook in slow cooker on low for 4-5 hours.
Coleslaw
Large head of cabbage, chopped
1 pack grated baby carrots
2-3 tablespoons sugar
¼ cup dill pickle juice
1-2 cups mayonnaise
Salt and pepper to taste
Mix well, chill, and store in a plastic bowl, not metal. Use it up by the next day
