Mother, daughter cook up a family tradition
Story Scotty Vickery
Photos by Kelsey Bain
When Lori and John Junkins made the decision to renovate the kitchen of their A-frame home on Logan Martin Lake nine years ago, it was about much more than gas appliances, glistening granite countertops and creating extra storage. It was about strengthening roots, creating a comfortable space to carry on family traditions and spotlighting the beauty that’s all around them.
Lori Junkins and Teresa McLarty
“It’s so peaceful,” Junkins said of the view from the room’s picture window overlooking the sparkling water. A sugar maple that shades the deck in the summer and creates a dazzling display a few months later provides the finishing touch. “In the fall, it’s a brilliant yellow. Looking at the lake with those yellow leaves trickling down is just amazing,” she said.
It’s almost as wonderful as the aroma coming from her oven one recent morning as a batch of yeast rolls made from her mother’s recipe turned golden brown. “The smell immediately takes me back to my mama’s kitchen,” Junkins said. “It just transports you. So many of the wonderful memories I have from my childhood center around food.”
The kitchen of the Aliceville, Ala., home she grew up in was a gathering spot for the family, and she wanted to create the same feeling in her own home after living with a cramped galley-style kitchen for 12 years. “It was a one-butt kitchen,” Junkins said with a laugh. “You couldn’t slide two people past each other.”
Today, after expanding the kitchen into the former dining room, there’s a large island featuring Bianco Antico granite, a built-in gas convection stove and oven, as well as seating for four. Lee Kerr of Oxford made the custom cabinets, which offset the white subway tile. “He had the idea to build the upper cabinets into the slope of the walls so I could have cabinets in a space where I didn’t think it was possible,” Junkins said.
Factor in the kitchen’s walnut floors, which lead into the family room with its vaulted tongue-and-groove ceiling and brick wood-burning fireplace, and the result is a calm, inviting space that Junkins loves. “My goal was for it to be something that would stand the test of time,” she said. “Lake living is a lifestyle. When people come to my home, the thing that makes me feel the best is when they say it’s so peaceful. My house is not stuffy, it’s not pretentious; it’s comfortable. It’s a little like being on vacation all the time.”
Mama’s Cooking
Junkins, who enjoys time at home with John and 17-year-old Amelia, learned everything about making a house comfortable and welcoming from her mother,
Marie Hines. “Hospitality is a gift, and my mama has it,” she said. “She was known all throughout Pickens County for her yeast rolls. I can remember her kitchen being covered in pans of rolls in various stages of the rising and baking process.”
It all comes naturally for Mrs. Hines, who has been cooking for at least 84 of her 90 years. The oldest of nine children, she began cooking meals for the whole family when she was 11, and “I baked my own birthday cake when I was 6 years old,” she said.
Junkins said she and her father, Tom Hines, and her brother and two sisters woke up every morning to a full breakfast of bacon, eggs and biscuits or toast. Each evening, they enjoyed a big supper of meat and vegetables, and holiday meals were absolute feasts.“The kitchen was full of every kind of Southern dish you could imagine,” she remembers. “All of these dishes just magically appeared.”
Mrs. Hines, who went to work part-time when Junkins was in kindergarten and then worked full-time at a bank for 20 years, always enjoyed making magic in the kitchen. Despite having to juggle work and her children’s activities, which included cheerleading, football and band, she considered it a privilege to cook for her husband and kids. “That’s how you showed your love for your family – putting a good meal on the table,” she said.
Like many Southern cooks, most of her recipes are in her head and consist of “a little of this and little of that,” Mrs. Hines said. “I’m a dump cook. I think butter is a magic ingredient, and so is a little bit of sugar.” After reading cookbooks like novels for years, she’s happy to share her secrets with anyone who asks. “If anybody wanted a recipe, I gave it to them,” she said. “I think if the Lord gives you a gift, you need to share it if you can.”
That’s good news for Junkins, who is on a mission to preserve some family memories, along with her mother’s wonderful recipes. “Another of Mama’s heirloom dishes is her cornbread dressing. She made dressing for our extended family gatherings every year until 2019, when she talked me through every step of making it,” Junkins said. “We figured after 88 years it was time to let her supervise. She had no written recipe and uses no fixed measurements, so I tried to record the directions as closely as I could.”
Most recently, Junkins mastered her mother’s yeast rolls, garlic rolls and cinnamon rolls that start with the same dough. “After years of saying I wanted to learn to make them ‘someday,’ I finally got my lesson,” she said. “The first time I made them, I ate six.”
Junkins said she’s grateful her mother lives nearby so she can spend time in the kitchen with her. After living in Aliceville for decades, her parents moved to Pell City in 2008. Her father, Tom Hines, passed away in 2015, but she still feels connected to him when she’s cooking. “Bonnie Chasteen, a dear friend of my mother’s, made all of us aprons out of Dad’s shirts,” she said.“They’re even more special now because she passed away earlier this year.”
Lake Living
Although Junkins and her husband have been thrilled with the upstairs renovations they made in 2012, just a year after they got married, they toyed with the idea of moving a few years ago. Junkins was diagnosed with a malignant brain tumor in 2014, and there were lots of unknowns.
“I didn’t know if I would even be around in five years,” she said. “We wondered for a while if we should get a one-level home, and we even looked at a few. John finally asked me, ‘If you live another 10 to 15 years, and we moved from this house, would you regret it?’ I told him, ‘Probably,’ so he said, “Let’s just re-do this one.”
That’s why, following Junkins’ craniotomy and radiation treatments, the lower level of the house got a makeover in 2016. Although Junkins is doing well and has had no recurrence of cancer, the renovated space can accommodate one-level living if they ever need it. An old galley kitchen, similar to the one that was upstairs, has been opened up and now boasts new countertops and appliances. There are also bedrooms, bathrooms and a living area on that floor.
“I don’t know that I could ever move off the lake,” Junkins said.
Marie Hines’ Icebox Yeast Rolls
Marie Hines’ recipe, as recorded by Lori Hines Junkins
Ingredients:
4 cups (1 qt) sweet milk
4 sticks of butter, divided
1 cup sugar
2 pkgs yeast
10 to 12 cups plain flour, divided
1 Tbsp salt
1 tsp baking soda
2 tsp baking powder
garlic salt
Directions:
Heat milk, 2 sticks of butter and 1 cup of sugar in oversized boiler over medium heat, stirring constantly. Remove from heat just prior to boiling. While milk mixture cools, dissolve yeast in warm water according to package directions. When milk mixture has reached lukewarm temperature, stir dissolved yeast into lukewarm milk mixture. Add 6 cups of flour and stir until flour is incorporated, forming a thin dough. Cover with a tea towel; place in a warm spot and allow the dough to rise until doubled in size (this may take several hours).
After dough has doubled in size, sift together 2 cups of flour, salt, baking soda and baking powder. Punch down the risen dough and add the seasoned flour mixture to ensure the leavening agents are evenly distributed. Gradually add in remaining flour (2 to 4 cups, as needed to form relatively stiff dough). Grease an oversized bowl (oil or cooking spray) and place dough in greased bowl. (Note: Dough can be covered and kept refrigerated for
several days before rolling it out if necessary. Dough will likely rise in refrigerator and could “pop the top” – keep an eye on it and keep it covered so it does not dry out. When ready to roll it out, remove from refrigerator and allow it to rest at room temperature for an hour or so before dividing/kneading/rolling as outlined below.)
Prepare baking pans with non-stick spray. Divide into fourths for ease of rolling out. Knead dough gently on floured board. Roll out with rolling pin in a large rectangle to about 3/8” thickness. Melt butter (half a stick at a time, for each section of dough); brush dough with melted butter.
FOR CRESCENT ROLLS
Very lightly sprinkle a bit of sugar across buttered dough. Slice dough into 6-inch widths, then cut into triangles; roll from widest end to point, creating crescent shape. Place rolls in greased pan and brush with melted butter.
Allow to rise for 2+ hours before baking.
FOR CINNAMON ROLLS
Rectangle should be about twice as long as it is wide. Generously sprinkle cinnamon and sugar over buttered dough. Roll jelly- roll style (rolling from widest length); slice into 1-inch slices. Place rolls in greased pan with sides touching, brush with melted butter.
Allow to rise for 3+ hours before baking.
(Cinnamon rolls typically take longer to rise because of the added weight of the sugar and cinnamon mixture.)
FOR POCKETBOOK GARLIC ROLLS
Sprinkle buttered dough generously with garlic salt. Cut with round cookie cutter or biscuit
cutter. Dip (or brush) each round in melted butter and fold over, pressing center edge together lightly to form “pocketbook.”
Allow to rise for 2+ hours before baking.
Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Place pan of risen rolls on center rack; bake 12-15 minutes until golden brown. Serve warm.
For cinnamon rolls: While rolls are baking, mix powdered sugar, vanilla and water to form light icing. After removing cinnamon rolls from oven, drizzle icing over warm rolls. (Lori’s suggested variation: incorporate whipped cream cheese to icing before drizzling/spreading over cinnamon rolls.)
* (Note: Dough can be kept refrigerated for several days after it is rolled, shaped and placed in pans. If you plan to refrigerate, cover and place in refrigerator). Before baking, place in a warm spot and allow dough to rise for several hours before baking.)
Mama’s Cornbread Dressing
Marie Hines’ recipe, as recorded by Lori Hines Junkins
Ingredients:
1 large pan of cornbread
4-6 pieces of white bread (stale bread is fine)
Chicken Stock (homemade or use 1-2 cartons)
2-3 onions
5-6 stalks of celery
1-2 stick of butter
6 eggs
Sage or poultry seasoning
Black pepper
Cayenne pepper
Cranberry Jelly (1-2 cans)
Directions:
1. Bake one large pan of cornbread.
2. Cut up and boil a chicken*. Remove chicken and run liquid through a strainer; return stock to boiler. (Lori’s cheat: Substitute a couple of cartons of chicken broth if you’re short on time.)
3. Cut up 2 or 3 medium onions and chop in food processor; add diced onion to chicken stock. String and cut up 5-6 stalks of fresh celery and chop in food processor. Add to chicken stock, along with a stick (or 2) of butter. Bring chicken stock to a boil, then reduce heat to simmer, allowing onion and celery to cook until translucent, giving flavors time to marry.
4. While stock is simmering, crumble cornbread and place in oversized bowl. Roughly tear 5 or 6 pieces of white sandwich bread and place in food processor; pulse until bread is crumbly. Add bread crumbs to crumbled cornbread.
5. Pour chicken stock over cornbread mixture and mix thoroughly.
6. Beat 6 eggs; pour into cornbread mixture. Dressing mixture should be very moist; add more chicken stock as needed to ensure dressing mixture is not too dry. Season with sage (or poultry seasoning), black pepper, and a bit of cayenne pepper, and mix together thoroughly. (Note: If using fresh chicken broth instead of store-bought broth, you will likely need to add salt. Store-bought dressing has a high sodium content, so additional salt may not be needed.) Adjust seasoning to taste. (Optional: add one can of cream of chicken soup.)
7. Pour dressing into a large, greased casserole dish. If making ahead, cover with foil and refrigerate for up to 24 hours. (If making further ahead, dressing can be frozen, then thawed the day it is baked.)
8. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Bake covered for 30 minutes, then remove foil; continue baking uncovered until dressing is golden brown on top (about 20-30 more minutes, typically).
9. Remove cranberry jelly (remove lid, work knife around inside of can to coax jelly out onto serving dish); slice and serve as an accompaniment to dressing.
*Note: Although we do not add chicken to our dressing for holiday meals where it is served as a side to turkey, if you cooked a chicken in step 2, you can de-bone and shred the chicken and add it to the dressing to serve as a main dish for a great weeknight main dish.
