Food, family, fun always on the menu

Story by Scottie Vickery
Photos by Mackenzie Free

There are a few givens whenever the Nelson/McLaughlin family gets together, often gathering at Logan Martin Lake. First, there’s gonna be food – and lots of it. Second, laid-back, casual fun is always on the agenda. And third, they’re going to blow the myth that “too many cooks spoil the broth” (or the sauce, in the case of this close-knit Italian family) right out of the water.

For this crew, a great celebration means all hands on deck, whether it’s in the kitchen, out by the grill, or wherever the magic is happening. “We’re a big Italian family, and we all grew up cooking,” said Nicole Nelson McLaughlin. “Nobody shows up empty-handed.”

Everyone has his or her own specialty, but while they all may be professional grade cooks, Nicole is the only one who made a profession out of cooking. The culinary producer for Allrecipes.com, she stars in the Get Cookin’ video series, demonstrating cooking techniques and sharing food tips and recipes with her ever-growing group of followers.

Recently, her job took her to New York City and the Today show, where she cooked up some favorites with hosts Savannah Guthrie and Hoda Kotb. Her hope is that more families will discover the joys of cooking – and eating – together. “Every memory we have centers around food,” she said. I don’t understand people who eat to live because we definitely live to eat.”

Food isn’t the only thing that evokes memories for the family. Nicole and her brothers, Freddie and Mark Nelson, spent an enormous part of their childhood at the Logan Martin Lake home in Mays Bend that their parents, Fred and Gloria, still own. About three years ago, Freddie and his wife, Leigh Ann, bought a house in Pine Harbor, and other family members also have homes on the lake. That’s why, more often than not, a family gathering includes a beautiful view of the water.

“I’d rather be here than anywhere else,” Freddie said. “I grew up on this lake. Boating, skiing, fishing. We love everything about it.”

They especially love entertaining. He and Leigh Ann recently hosted a pre-wedding celebration for her brother, Alec Priola, and his fiancé, Mary Katherine Barrett. Freddie cooked up a big pot of jambalaya, family and friends played Bucket Golf on the lawn, and the guests enjoyed music and the beautiful backdrop the lake provides. “We do a lot of outdoor cooking,” Freddie said. “We love getting out the propane cooker for crawfish boils or jambalaya, and nary a weekend goes by without firing up the Big Green Egg or pit grill at the water’s edge. Life’s just simpler here.”

Get Cookin’ with Nicole

Although she’s always enjoyed cooking, Nicole decided to take things to the next level when she went to The University of Alabama to pursue a bachelor’s degree in restaurant and hospitality management. “The Food Network was getting big about the time I was going to college, and it just looked so glamorous,” said Nicole, who lives in Hoover with her husband, Thomas, and three children.

After college, she earned a culinary degree from Johnson and Wales University in Charleston. “I always wanted to be a chef, but I didn’t want to work nights, weekends and holidays,” she said with a laugh. “That wasn’t really going to work.”

Instead, she started freelancing as a food stylist and helping with photo shoots for various magazines. “One thing led to another, and now I’m making videos,” said Nicole, who works at the Birmingham office of Dotdash Meredith, the country’s largest digital and print publisher. In addition to Allrecipes, Dotdash Meredith is the parent company for brands such as Southern Living, Better Homes & Gardens, People, and Entertainment Weekly.

“I started doing hands-only videos, and I was OK with that because only my hands showed,” she said. “I eventually got on-screen because my boss, who knows me well, wanted to give me a challenge. Gradually, I built a following.”

In the Get Cookin’ videos, she helps viewers unlock the mysteries of everything from grilling the perfect kabobs, to making an easy breakfast casserole, Beef Bourguignon, no-bake cheesecake or lemon squares. “My point of view is about budget and a very realistic approach to cooking,” she said. “I think people would say I take the intimidation out of cooking.”

Developing recipes is one of her favorite parts of the job because she gets to be creative. She’s a big fan of one-pot dishes because they serve a lot of people, and cleanup is easy. “I like cooking anything savory, and I love the ease of one-pot dinners and the way the flavors build upon each other,” she said.

The secret’s in the sauce – and the sausage

Nicole also likes to share some of her family’s favorite Italian recipes, including sugo, which is Italian for “sauce.” Some people call it Sunday sauce, while others say Sunday gravy, but regardless of the name, “if you come to our houses on Sunday, this is what you’re going to smell,” Nicole said. “We all make our own version, and none of it tastes the same even though we use the same ingredients.”

One thing that remains a constant, though, is that they always use Arnone’s Italian Sausage. Available at most Birmingham-area Piggly Wiggly stores, it’s made from the recipe their grandfather, Anthony Arnone, perfected.

“He was the head butcher at the Piggly Wiggly in Midfield, and he would bring home the trimmings and made his own sausage,” Nicole said, adding that the sausage was eventually sold at the store. Before he passed away, Anthony gave the recipe to his son and sons-in-law, who made batches at Christmas for family and friends. Eventually, they brought it back to the retail market, and now “it’s a staple in our recipes,” Nicole said.

Better at the lake

Another staple for the family is a love for Logan Martin Lake. Freddie said his parents bought the Mays Bend home in the early 1980s, and he and Nicole agree it’s been a preferred gathering spot ever since. “It’s my favorite place,” Nicole said. “There are fewer distractions, and you spend the entire day – from the time you wake up until the time you go to bed – outside.”

Now that they’re all grown, Freddie, Nicole and Mark want the same experience for their families. That’s why they all head for the water whenever possible, even though they already spend lots of time together. Mark and his wife, Erin, and their two kids live in Hoover, not far from Nicole and her family. Freddie and Mark work with their father and two cousins at Nelson Glass, the family business started by Fred and his brother-in-law, Frank Dickinson. 

Although they enjoy getting together wherever they can, the family knows that life is always better at the lake. That’s because the focus is on simple pleasures like good food, good company and good fun. 

“We all have our roles, but Mark’s in charge of entertainment,” Nicole said. “We call him Funcle Mark because he’s the fun uncle. He takes the kids on the boat and takes them tubing all the time. We all want our kids to have the same kind of memories that we do.”

Freddie said he and Leigh Ann love lake life so much, they decided to look for a place of their own about three years ago since their boys love being on the water and fishing. After hearing about the 3-bedroom, 2-bath home from Leigh Ann’s sister and her husband, who also live on the lake, they decided to take a look.

“We pulled up in the boat one Monday, and I didn’t even have to see the inside of the house. I saw all this,” he said, gesturing at the lawn and outdoor living space the lot with 160 feet of waterfront offers. “I knew this was where we wanted to be.”

Now they come pretty much every weekend and spend as much time at the lake all year long as possible. “As soon as we pull up in the driveway, any stress from the week goes away.” Freddie said. “Immediately, I can breathe. I even love coming and just doing yard work or tinkering on our boats or around the house. It’s not work with this view.”

The home has also become one of their favorite places to entertain, and more often than not, Freddie takes on the cooking. “He probably cooks more than I do, and I cook for a living,” Nicole said.

Leigh Ann said she’s happy to turn it over to him. “Before we got married, I would have my friends over a lot, but I have to use my tried-and-true recipes and follow them exactly. Freddie just has a way of making it better,” she said. “He can take whatever’s in the kitchen and make something amazing.”

Freddie said he loves to grill, as well. Ribs and chicken wings are favorites, as are Boston Butts, Cornish game hens, and brisket. They’ve cooked whole hogs and hosted an oyster roast, too.

In addition to wonderful food, Freddie can provide the perfect playlist of music and often the perfect cocktail to accompany the meal, according to Leigh Ann.

“He makes it an experience,” she said. “I was at a Pampered Chef party, and they asked us to describe ourselves in the kitchen in one or two words. Sous-chef instantly came to me. I love being his backup.”

Family time

Although Leigh Ann said the family has been known to fight over who gets to host a particular celebration, the most important thing is that the family is together. That’s 15 people when it’s just the siblings, their parents, spouses and kids. For larger events like Thanksgiving or Christmas, the number can grow to 45 people or more.

“Everyone makes something, and we always have two or three appetizers – the meal before the meal,” Nicole said. “Then we have the huge meal and dessert. We like to stretch it out and make everything an event.”

Most events become traditions. “My husband is from South Carolina, and they have low country oyster roasts every winter,” Nicole said. “Now we have one every year at the lake. My mom started it about 15 years ago, and we’ve had it ever since.”

Whatever the occasion, laughter and love are sure to be on the menu. “My son recently had a birthday, and he called his grandmother and said, “I want dinner to be at your house, and I want pasta and meatballs and banana pudding,” Leigh Ann said.

“We had everyone all together for the first time in a while, and when I say ‘a while,’ it had only been about a month,” she said. “We were laughing and having fun, and I thought to myself, ‘There is nowhere on earth I would rather be than right here.’ ”

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Italian Sunday Sauce

From Nicole McLaughlin, Allrecipes

Ingredients:

• 2 pounds pork neck bones
• 2 teaspoons kosher salt, plus more to taste
• 1 teaspoon ground black pepper
• 2 tablespoons olive oil, divided
• 1 ¼ pounds Italian sausage links
• 1 ½ cups finely chopped white onion
• 2 cloves garlic, minced
• 2 (12 ounce) cans tomato paste
• 1 (28 ounce) can tomato puree
• 1 (28 ounce) can crushed tomatoes
• 7 cups water
• 1 tablespoon white sugar, or more to taste
• 1 bay leaf
• 1 tablespoon dried basil
• ½ teaspoon dried oregano
• ·         12 large cooked meatballs (recipe below)

Directions:
Sprinkle neck bones on all sides with salt and pepper.
Heat 4 teaspoons oil in a large, heavy-bottomed stockpot or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Place neck bones in the pot and cook for 6 minutes, flipping halfway through. Transfer to a plate. Add sausage links to the drippings and brown for 3 minutes on each side, adding remaining oil as needed. Set aside with the pork. Add onion to the drippings and season with salt. Cook, stirring often, until onion is soft and translucent, about 5 minutes. Add garlic and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Stir in tomato paste and cook for 1 minute. Add tomato puree and crushed tomatoes, then add water and sugar. Cook, stirring constantly, until smooth. Add bay leaf. Rub basil and oregano between your fingers to release the aroma and add to the sauce. Slice sausages into large chunks and return to the pot with the neck bones. Bring to a simmer, stirring occasionally. Add meatballs, reduce heat to low, and simmer, stirring occasionally, for 4 to 6 hours. Remove neck bones and bay leaf. Remove any meat remaining on the bones, shred, and return to the sauce.

Best Easy Meatballs

From Nicole McLaughlin, Allrecipes

Ingredients:

• cooking spray
• ⅓ cup minced onion
• ⅓ cup Italian bread crumbs
• ⅓ cup half-and-half
• ¼ cup grated Parmesan cheese
• ·         2 large eggs
• 1 large egg yolk
• 2 cloves garlic, minced
• 1 tablespoon chopped fresh basil
• 1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley
• ¼ teaspoon dried oregano
• 1 ¼ pounds ground round beef
• ½ pound ground Italian sausage
• 1 teaspoon kosher salt
• ½ teaspoon ground black pepper
• 2 (24 ounce) jars marinara sauce

Directions:

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Line a rimmed baking sheet with foil and spray foil lightly with cooking spray. Combine onion, bread crumbs, half-and-half, Parmesan cheese, eggs, egg yolk, garlic, basil, parsley, and oregano in a large bowl; stir until well combined. Add ground round and sausage and sprinkle evenly with salt and pepper. Mix well until just combined. Dampen hands with water and form mixture into 18 golf ball-sized meatballs. Arrange meatballs on the prepared baking sheet. Bake in the preheated oven until browned, 12 to 15 minutes. Transfer meatballs to a large pot and add marinara sauce. Simmer over low heat for at least 2 hours before serving.

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Pine Harbor Jambalaya

(feeds a crowd)

From Freddie Nelson

Ingredients:

• 3 pounds chicken thighs, cut into large pieces
• 2 pounds andouille sausage, cut into small pieces
• 1 pound alligator & pork sausage, cut into small pieces (find at seafood or butcher shops or use pork sausage)
• 1 pound smoked ham, cut into small pieces
• 4 white onions, chopped
• 3 green bell peppers, chopped
• 1 head celery, chopped
• 1 1/2 heads garlic, chopped
• 1 (23-ounce) can condensed cream of mushroom soup
• 1 (28-ounce) can petite diced tomatoes
• 5-6 bay leaves
• 4 quarts chicken broth or stock
• 4 pounds jasmine rice
• 2 bunches flat-leaf parsley, chopped
• 3 bunches scallions, chopped  
• 4 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
• 1 tablespoon cayenne pepper
• 3-5 tablespoons Cajun Two-Step Seasoning (or other Cajun or Creole seasoning,) divided
• Salt to taste
• 3 tablespoons vegetable oil
• Hot sauce to taste
• 2 pounds peeled Gulf shrimp
• Additonal chopped scallions for garnish

Directions:

Cook in a 5-gallon pot. Brown sausages and ham. Remove from pot. Lightly season chicken with Cajun seasoning. Brown and remove from pan. Sauté all vegetables for 5 to 10 minutes until softened. Season with salt to taste. Add broth or stock and bring to a boil. Add remaining ingredients except rice and shrimp. Add meat back to pot. Cook for 10-15 minutes. Add rice and stir for several minutes. Cover and simmer until rice is tender. Lightly season shrimp with Cajun seasoning and add to pot for final 5 minutes. Garnish with scallions and serve.

Food, fun, friends make for special Saturdays

Story by Carol Pappas
Photos by Mackenzie Free

It’s an August morning at Town & Country Texaco, a view of Logan Martin setting the scene as a backdrop in the distance. Boaters line up at the pumps to fuel their day ahead on the water. Dozens of anglers put in at the boat ramp just as the sun comes up, readying for today’s big catch.

Cars and trucks stream in and out, almost as if the parking lot were encased by a revolving door. Folks clad in everything from suit and tie to shorts, tank tops and flip flops head into the store and out again. It’s the hurried comings and goings of yet another Saturday at Town & Country.

You might say the establishment itself is quite the attraction, and you would be right. Ask Kurt Russell and the set crew of Rivals of Amziah. They filmed there in July.

But if you look to the left, smoke wafting from a nearby tent with a tantalizing aroma of Boston Butts, ribs, chickens and wings emanating from oversized smoker ovens, you’d know you had arrived at so much more.

Under the tent sits Gerry Richey, a retired coach, who set up shop there nine years ago when Craig Goodgame opened the new Town & Country. He had been cooking for the high school baseball team for 20 years, and the culinary expertise he brought to that tent nearly a decade ago simply “took off.” The evidence is seen in the growing volume of customers awaiting his creations every weekend.

Of course, the tent has expanded since then. So have the ovens – double deckers – the crowds of customers and the gathering of locals who swap stories, settle the woes of the day and just plain ‘hang out.’ Of course, if they see a need, they’re right there, too. “If our friends see we’re busy, they jump right in taking money, boxing stuff up,” said Richey, who handles the operation along with Wade Graham.

On holidays, the pace is hectic. They average cooking 180-220 butts on holidays like Labor Day and July 4. “We couldn’t make it on holidays without help,” Richey said. Holidays have three grills going continuously.

He and Graham bought the first oven nine years ago when they opened their fledgling business under a pickup tent. Now, it’s a tradition for locals sharing ‘quality time’ on a Saturday morning.  

History lessons abound about the river and days gone by. “You learn a lot of history,” said Erskine Funderburg, a lawyer in town.

The conversation tends to go a bit like this:

“Me and Daddy used to quail hunt at Lock 4,” Richey recalls, referring to a lock near Riverside and Lincoln no longer in use once Logan Martin Lake was created in 1965.

“We used to rabbit hunt at Catatoga,” he said, pointing in the direction of a lakeside subdivision a stone’s throw from Town & Country.

Blake Nixon, Danny Abbott, Funderburg, Bob Thomas and Richard M. “Doughnut” Nixon are usually in the mix of Saturday regulars, although not all were there this particular Saturday. On this day, there’s Richey, Jerry Howard, Craig Goodgame, Graham, John Otwell, Jerry Bowman, Terry Castleberry, Spike LeMaster, Funderburg, Thomas and Nixon.

Funderburg dubbed it the equivalent of  “our men’s beauty shop.” He comes nearly every Saturday for “personalities and conversation.” To him, “It’s definitely a men’s beauty shop – lots of lies and a little bit of truth.”

“It may get a little different when you leave,” Terry Castleberry interjected with a nod toward being respectful of the woman present. Knowing laughter from the rest of the assembled group immediately followed.

“Don’t pay attention to him,” one of the ‘beauticians’ said as Spike LeMaster joined the group. He’s another regular, who enjoys the camaraderie, he said.

Conversation again turns to the beauty shop reference for a moment. “Is that a permanent?,” one asks Frunderburg, who has curly hair peeking out from under a baseball cap. Funderburg retorts, “It’s only right to come here and get abused every weekend. I do the abusing (as a lawyer) all week long.”

The scene is much like the mechanics of a pinball machine, bouncing from one subject to another.

Talk briefly turns to the lottery, where the $1.4 billion pot was still intact from the drawing the night before. A couple of them had tickets with four of six numbers plus the Powerball. “So close,” they lamented.

“Here comes the plumber,” said another, alerting the rest of the group to the arrival of Jamie Gipson from Trussville. He comes every Saturday for ribs, they boast. When he arrives at the tent, Gipson explains as best he can. “I don’t know what they do with the ribs, but every Saturday morning, it’s my ritual. When you get hooked on something, you stick with it.”

What about the movie filmed there a couple of weeks before? Craig Goodgame, owner of Town & Country, is part of the group, and he sets the scene. “This guy stopped by. He said he was a scene director, and he asked if I would be interested.” Goodgame obliged. The original ask was for two days of shooting, but it only took one. “They showed up at 7 p.m. and left at 2 a.m.”

Although Russell was a star, Goodgame said, he was approachable, talking to him and the staff the whole time. “He was extremely friendly – a nice man.” While Russell and his movie star wife, Goldie Hawn, have been together since the 70s, he told him and the staff they just got married six months ago. “He told us that story,” Goodgame said. “He said they were finally old enough to get married.”

The tent operation supplies the convenience store, too – at least 20 butts a weekend. “Can’t get caught up in there,” Richey said. “They take the butts and make sandwiches. They can’t keep them,” he said of their apparent disappearing act as the comings and goings of the day wear on.

Wings, butts and whole smoked chickens are the order of the day, especially during football season, where a single customer may order 100 wings for a game day gathering.

Customers come from all around the lake and out of town, too. Regulars stop in from Trussville, Moody and Vincent. He has one customer from Atlanta with a lake place, and he stops to take meat back with him to Georgia.

When do they close? Simple, said Richey. “When we run out – usually run out every Saturday.”

The day for him actually starts the day before. He puts the butts on to smoke overnight at about 6 p.m. on Friday. At 3 a.m., he’s back to smoke the rest and put the finishing touches on. “By the time people get here, everything’s ready. If we’re not ready, people would get ill at us.”

They’re only open on Saturdays, but holidays see them expand to a three-day weekend – Friday, Saturday and Sunday.

As the conversation slowed a bit, Richey checked on the wings, toting a nondescript bucket with a mop. He’s ready to baste. He says what he’s holding is the key to their success. “This is what makes our butts so good.” He didn’t wait for the obvious question. “No, I can’t tell you what’s in the bucket. It’s a secret – the secret sauce.”

Perhaps the secret comes from the days his family owned a café when he was young – the Ranch House. Or maybe it’s learned from decades of grilling for the baseball team.

“It must be pretty good. People still come,” Richey said, not specifying whether it’s for the food or the company.

As another crowd gathers under the tent on Saturdays, it’s easy to conclude it’s both.