Story by Roxann Edsall Photos by Graham Hadley Submittted photos
If you’re not from around here, the sign wouldn’t draw you in, and the name wouldn’t make sense. The building is not an imposing brown boat, nor is it floating in water. The Coosa River is an important part of the story, though. The history is as fascinating as the food is good.
It’s a story that began in 1930 when E.O. “Red” Thompson decided to play a game of cat and mouse with the local authorities. After a decade of Prohibition, he hatched a plan to open a bar and restaurant.
His first step was to buy and refurbish an old dredging barge and park it 30 feet off the banks of the Coosa River. He outfitted it with a kitchen and tables and chairs and called it “The Ark.” He sold beer for 15 cents a can. Sixty cents would get you all the catfish and hushpuppies you could eat.
Customers to this floating speakeasy could either walk in on the gangplank or tie off by boat. Since the Coosa divided the counties of St. Clair and Talladega, The Ark was not in the jurisdiction of either county.
Local legend tells that if the Talladega authorities were on the way, he’d move to the St. Clair side of the water. If the authorities from St. Clair were on the way, he’d move to the Talladega side.
It was a dance that lasted for the next three years until the 21st Amendment ended Prohibition. The barge eventually burned and sank, and Thompson built a log building on land and reopened the restaurant and bar. When that location also burned, he built the current building in Riverside just south of the Coosa River bridge on U.S. 78.
Bought in the late 70s by retired newspaper editor and publisher Bob and Sylvia Cornett, the new owners operated the restaurant with more emphasis on developing recipes and relationships than on evading the law. They kept catfish as their primary draw but gave the place a more family-friendly feel.
The opening of the Talladega Super Speedway in 1969 gave them a whole new clientele and they began to see NASCAR drivers like Richard Petty and Dale Earnhardt on a regular basis. Autographed pictures of famous drivers and politicians grace the walls, giving a nod to the global appeal of a great plate of catfish. Recently, comedian Darren Knight was a guest.
Current owner Shirley Abts says they still get some business around race weekends, but it’s not what it used to be a decade ago. “Most of the drivers have their food catered now,” she said. “They just stay in their trailers and have the food come to them.”
Shirley and her (now deceased) husband, Richard, bought The Ark in 2013. They already had the Cropwell restaurant Even Odds when they were approached by Sylvia Cornett. “Sylvia came to me and asked me to buy it. They were struggling, and she said she was going to lose it if I didn’t buy it, so I did,” said Abts. “I had been coming here to The Ark for 30 years, and I didn’t want to see it close.”
Diverse chapters comprise Ark story
The restaurant was used as a movie set in 2019. The producers of the Netflix original, The Devil All the Time, starring Tom Holland, Bill Skarsgard and Sebastian Stan transformed The Ark into a 1960s diner, even replacing the sign with one calling it White Cow Diner, undoubtedly confusing passersby.
Antique cars lined the parking lot. “They came in and put up the sign and took out the air conditioners, fans and light fixtures,” Abts explained. “Then they put up curtains and a lot of 60s décor. Before they left, they put it ‘mostly’ back together,” she adds, with a chuckle. They did pay well enough, according to Abts, to pay the entire staff for several days they were not able to work due to the closure for filming.
2019 was a tough year for Abts, though, with the death of her husband early in the year, followed by a triple bypass surgery for her before the year ended. Then, just weeks after getting out of the hospital, she was told she had to close the restaurant when the pandemic halted in-person dining.
She acknowledges the community as being the blessing that came from that experience. “People supported us through that. People lined up outside for takeout orders seven days a week. And they tipped well to take care of our wait staff,” said Abts. “That was before delivery services like Door Dash and Jack Rabbit. It was so busy that we had to have a waitress go car to car taking orders because our phone was too busy that people couldn’t get through.”
The ’regulars’ and an icon
They have many loyal customers, including some who come every single day. Don’t ask for table six at 11:00; it’s reserved for Joey. He and his wife come in every day, from their jobs at a local auction house.
It’s the loyal customers that keep Sheerie Smith working there. She’s been a waitress at The Ark for over 20 years, starting when she was just 15. Her mom, aunt and grandmother also worked there, so the job has truly been a family affair. “We have a lot of the same customers that we’ve had for so many years,” says Smith. “These people have watched me grow up here. They ask about my kids. They’re family.”
As soon as she bought it, Abts found people who knew the original recipes that the previous owners had gotten away from. Then she rehired people who knew how to make those recipes.
She only buys U.S. farm-raised catfish and slices her produce fresh each day. “The former owners had been using frozen onions and when we went back to fresh cut, we could barely keep up with all the onion rings people wanted,” said Abts proudly. “Fresh makes a big difference in the taste.”
The difference is clearly a good one, as their catfish is listed on the Alabama Tourism Department’s 100 Dishes to Eat in Alabama Before You Die. They were also a finalist in Bama’s Best Catfish Restaurant competition by the Alabama Catfish Producers and the Catfish Institute’s Top Ten Restaurants in America to Eat Catfish.
They’ve recently added a new “Remix” sandwich that features catfish and shrimp with a rémoulade sauce, topped with lettuce and tomato. While catfish is their signature dish, the fish and shrimp combo is what they sell most. “We don’t play when it comes to shrimp,” adds Abts. “We have really big shrimp!” They’ve also added desserts to the menu, currently featuring a homemade cheesecake by local baker Barbara Miller. On occasion, they also have buttermilk pie.
As with any business operating post pandemic, she struggles to keep fully staffed. There are signs at each booth asking people to be patient regarding wait times. It’s worth the wait, adds Abts. “We use fresh food. We don’t precook anything. It’s made to order. That’s why it takes a little while to get your food.”
The tiny sign outside says, “The Ark Family Restaurant.” It’s a family restaurant with a small sign, an unremarkable building, a storied past, but touting a big flavor, seasoned with staff dedicated to keeping it firmly in place in the landscape of their community.
Story by Carol Pappas Submitted photos | Archived photos
The saying goes, ‘Build it, and they will come.’ In Lincoln these days, they have already arrived.
Since opening less than a year ago, Lincoln’s Landing is now on the map as a destination point. Thousands of boats have already launched from this cutting-edge fishing park, and tournaments are already scheduled two years out.
Les Robinson, director of Lincoln’s Landing, has been “a real plus to this project and to our city,” Lincoln Mayor Lew Watson said. “He puts his heart into it, which is what you need if you’re going to have a successful project.”
Success? Just take a look at the numbers. Lincoln’s Landing has launched 50 tournaments since July, Robinson said. With tournaments and everyday use, it already has reached the 4,500 to 5,000 boats launched mark, “and we haven’t been open a year,” he added.
The prestigious Bassmasters College Series is coming to Lincoln’s Landing in June for a two-day tournament and in the next 18 to 24 months, Robinson predicts, a Bassmasters Elite or Bassmasters Open, which are major attractions in the fishing world, are in its future. But it doesn’t stop there. The tourist dollars it lures along with the notoriety for Lincoln will have a huge economic impact, not only for Lincoln but the surrounding areas.
In the next budget period, a pavilion, bridge and swimming beach will be on the agenda for the city and this 40-acre site. “Then we’ll catch our breath a little bit,” Robinson said.
The park already includes a 165-foot long by 60-foot wide, stacked stone grand pavilion with fireplace and 4,000 square feet of open space for other events, fishing piers and slips and a boat ramp that can launch 10 boats at a time. The first wedding at the park is already booked.
Parking also will be a consideration. While 250 parking spaces seemed like plenty when the park was on the drawing board. The Alabama Bass Trail event had every spot filled plus parking on the grass, Mayor Watson said.
Two other pavilions – both 30 x 30 feet – will be built near the shoreline and be rentable for events as well as everyday use. A pad is planned for a food truck area to serve tournaments.
“It’s more than just a fishing park,” Robinson said. “We have a lot to offer.”
In July, when construction was at its height, Watson could already see what was taking shape and its potential. He noted its accessibility – near Interstate 20 and U.S. 78. “It is right off the main channel on the lake, with year-round water,” Watson said at the time. “It is the perfect place for the park. It’s like, ‘If we build it, they will come.’”
Take a look around on any given day. They’re already here.
The months of May and June on Logan Martin can sometimes leave fish in a post-spawn funk, but maybe these tips can help you catch a few more bass during this time frame.
In early May, you can find shad spawns early in the morning. You’re going to find shad spawning around docks and seawalls. You will know when you see one because shad will be running up and down dock posts and seawalls.
Watch for bass schooling and eating these baitfish. My favorite baits for a shad spawn are a spinnerbait and topwater walking bait.
Once the sun gets up, the shad spawning action will end, and fishing usually tends to slow down. I will still fish shallow docks with either a jig or wacky rigged stick bait.
Once we get into the month of June, I will start my search out deep. Fish will tend to school up offshore on long points and river ledges.
My main two baits out deep are a deep diving crankbait and swimbait. Having good current flow is key for this bite as well. This helps the fish group up and feed.
If you can find an active school, you can load the boat quickly.
Neely Henry
Neely Henry in May and June are some of the best times to fish this lake.
I keep it super simple when it comes to fishing Neely Henry these two months. In early May, you can still find a shad spawn on seawalls and grass.
A white swim jig is a deadly bait around these areas where shad are spawning. The swim jig allows you to cover a lot of water fast in order to find active fish.
Once the sun goes up, I tend to stay shallow at Neely Henry in both months. I will target grass and docks on the mid to lower end of the lake with a finesse jig and chatterbait. I keep these two baits locked into my hand until I find the active fish that are feeding.
A lot of fish will live shallow on this lake year round. It might be a grind-up shallow, but that is where you’re going to find your bigger bites.
Editor’s Note:
Zeke Gossett of Zeke Gossett Fishing grewup on the Coosa River and Logan MartinLake. He is a former collegiate championand is now a professional angler on theB.A.S.S. tour circuit and isa fishing guide.
Newlyweds embrace lake life, life together a perfect recipe
Story by Scottie Vickery | Photos by Kelsey Bain
Mealtime at William and Lindsey Weller’s Logan Martin Lake home takes a lot of planning. It’s not so much the menu that requires extra thought; it’s more about logistics.
She works three nights a week as a labor and delivery nurse in Birmingham. He works days as an aortic clinical specialist and travels all over the state, so the young newlyweds are constantly juggling crazy schedules. That’s why, on several weekdays, they often rely on a meal kit home delivery company so they can sit down each night and share a meal together.
“It’s just so easy,” William said of the meals that arrive with pre-portioned ingredients and recipes. “You don’t have to worry about going out or going to the grocery store, and it’s pretty healthy. I don’t mind cooking; I just don’t like figuring out what to cook.”
When they do have a little more time, they love sharing the duties in the kitchen. “I’m more of a recipe follower, and he’s more of an eye-baller,” Lindsey said, and William agreed. “I’m a dash of this and dash of that, and it works out most of the time,” he said. “If it tastes good, it worked. If it doesn’t, I know not to do it again.”
One meal they’ve mastered, seared ahi tuna and twice-baked potatoes, has become a favorite. “It’s our go-to,” William said. “It’s super easy, and it doesn’t take long at all. It’s what we made on Valentine’s Day.”
Saying “I do” to lake life
The Wellers, who married last August, are still new to lake life. William, who grew up in Trussville, and Lindsey, who is from Hayden, started dating in March 2020 and were engaged eight months later.
“I’ve always been the kind of person who takes things slow – and then I met him,” Lindsey said. William moved into their Logan Martin home last April, and she joined him after their wedding in August. Since then, they’ve been settling in to married life, entertaining family and friends and enjoying their own little piece of paradise that’s not far from Lakeside Park.
“We just love waking up and seeing the view,” William said. “We bought a boat last August, so we’re looking forward to our first summer with it.”
In the meantime, they’ve hosted weekend barbecues, Memorial Day and Fourth of July parties, bridal and baby showers, as well as family Thanksgiving and Christmas celebrations. “There’s always something going on here,” William said.
“We’re both big family people,” Lindsey added. “We have 10 girls in the family, and every Christmas we have a whole day of baking. It’s so much fun, and we had it here last year. I’m more of a baker than I am a cook.”
Their home, with its open floorplan, is perfect for entertaining. The kitchen, which has a gas stove and butler’s pantry, features leathered quartz countertops with seating for four at the island as well as a table for six. There’s concrete flooring throughout the main level, and the living area boasts wood beams, a brick fireplace flanked with open shelving and a beautiful view of the lake. They especially enjoy the patio that’s just off the living area, and Lindsey said they hope to add an outdoor fireplace and kitchen soon.
William handles most of the grilling duties when there’s a crowd, cooking everything from hamburgers and hotdogs to ribs and Boston butts, while friends and family pitch in with side dishes. He’s also mastered the art of cooking a big breakfast – pancakes, eggs and bacon – on the flat top grill.
“In the summer, there’s people here almost every weekend,” he said, adding that they have the best of both worlds. “It’s always lots of fun, and as much as we enjoy hosting and doing things with family and friends, we love our alone time, like movie nights, too.”
Cooking up fun
Lindsey works three 12-hour shifts a week, on Sunday, Monday and Tuesday nights. She comes home in the morning, goes to bed around 8 a.m. and wakes up about 4 p.m. “While I’m sleeping, he likes to start the Home Chef, and then when I get up around 4, I help him with it,” she said. Those evenings, they usually eat about 5:30, and William has been known to grab a bowl of cereal or something around 9 p.m.
The other days, Lindsey tries to be up by noon. “I hate wasting my day,” she said. Since they have more time, they may cook out those nights or try new recipes. Although most meals are winners, there have been a few that haven’t turned out quite as expected.
No matter the outcome, though, they have a lot of fun. “We laugh at each other all the time,” he said. “She was making broccoli seasoned with ranch dressing one time, and it called for 2 tablespoons, but she put two packets of seasoning in. It was so salty, and I was guzzling water, but I could tell what it could have been. I tasted the potential.”
Although he likes to boast that he never uses a timer, Lindsey is quick to point out that he probably should. “How many Home Chef meals have you burned?” she asked with a laugh. “It’s only the glazed meals,” he replied. “I made that mistake like twice, and now I know better than to walk away while it’s cooking.”
One thing they never joke about is how much they love the life they’re building together. “It’s pretty great,” William said. “We’re pretty lucky.”
Seared Ahi Tuna
Ahi tuna steaks
Coconut oil
Everything Bagel seasoning
Sriracha mayonnaise
Season tuna steaks with Everything Bagel seasoning. Add about 1 tablespoon of coconut oil to the pan and preheat for 3-5 minutes. Add tuna and sear 1-2 minutes on each side. Remove steaks from pan, drizzle with Sriracha mayonnaise and serve.
Twice Baked Potatoes
4 large russet or Yukon Gold potatoes, scrubbed
Olive oil
1 cup plus 4 oz. shredded sharp cheese, divided
¼ cup sour cream
¼ cup milk
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, room temperature
4 strips bacon cooked crisp and crumbled
Salt
Pepper
Chopped scallions, if desired
Preheat oven to 400 degrees and line a baking sheet with foil. Lightly rub each potato with olive oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Place the potatoes, evenly spaced, on a baking sheet.
Bake the potatoes 45 minutes to 1 hour. Remove potatoes from the oven, let them cool about 10 minutes before cutting them in half, lengthwise. Carefully scoop out the potato flesh into a mixing bowl, leaving a 1/8-inch to 1/4-inch thickness of flesh in each shell.
Return potato shells to baking sheet and cook at 400°F for about 10 minutes.
Combine sour cream, milk, half the cheese, half the butter, half the bacon and half the scallions (if desired) with the baked potato flesh. Season with salt and pepper to taste and mix together until smooth.
Remove potato shells from oven and set oven to broil. Fill each shell with the potato mixture until it’s rounded in the middle. Top with remaining cheese, bacon, butter and scallions.
Broil potatoes about 5-10 minutes until cheese has melted. Watch closely.
Allow them to cool about 10 minutes before serving.
How the ‘Ten Island Three’ preserved Alabama history
Story by Katie Bohannon Submitted photos | Archived photos
While prominent names like de Soto and Jackson might eclipse the countless individuals affiliated with the Ten Islands, their experiences, along with the incredible historical foundation planted before them, might have been submerged with the islands if not for the commitment of three local women.
Together, avid researchers Patsy Hanvey, Bette Sue McElroy and Charlotte Hood advocated for the recognition of the Ten Islands in the early 1990s, negotiating the area’s preservation with Alabama Power. The group, who called themselves ‘The Ten Island Three,’ convinced Alabama Power to finance The Ten Islands Historical Park.
“We just started kind of pulling things together,” Hood told The Gadsden Times Staff Writer Cindy West in a 1991 article. “We realized then how unique this history is. It’s just a complete cycle of humanity, from prehistoric to contemporary.”
Commercial art and anthropology-focused Jacksonville State University graduate Hanvey was recognized by the state of Oklahoma as Cherokee by birth. Throughout her life, she traveled across the U.S. until retiring near what was once the Cherokee Nation capital on the Coosa River in North Gadsden, where her ancestors lived.
A recipient of the Annie Forney Daugette award for most outstanding graduate in academics, talent and character, Hanvey overcame dyslexia and frequently reproduced prehistoric and historic Southeastern Cherokee pottery in traditional form. She dug her own clay, keeping dried chunks in various colors in baskets in her workroom and created paints from natural resources.
Hanvey’s archeology professor introduced her to fellow scholar McElroy, who shared her interests. An Auburn University graduate, McElroy taught at Disque Middle School and Episcopal Day School, giving private art lessons to students before becoming the archivist at the Gadsden Public Library. McElroy’s daughter, Mary Ann Watkins, recalls her mother as a lover of life and people, who treasured stories from all generations and discovered value in each moment. McElroy’s immense passion for learning sparked her intrigue in The Ten Islands, which led to her eventual crossed paths with Hanvey and Hood.
Hood studied piano at DeShazo College of Music in Memphis, Tenn., attending both Gadsden State Community College and Jacksonville State University to specialize in early childhood education and music. A 1991 Gadsden Times article detailed Hood’s discovery of an oddly shaped natural artifact at the Ten Islands area, which she found with her husband, an Alabama Power executive. Upon showing the rock to JSU archeology specialist Harry Holstein (Hanvey’s professor), Holstein connected Hood with Hanvey and McElroy, writing a new chapter in history with formation of ‘The Ten Island Three.’
“They were really good friends,” said Watkins. “They were all so passionate about their work.”
Former Gadsden Times writer Bill Thornton recalled a 1993 interview with the women during the official reveal of the historic park. Thornton, who was 22 years old and fresh out of school at the time, remembers them as a hoot – an enthusiastic and unforgettable bunch whose commitment and caring natures were evident.
“It’s been really exciting to see this come together,” Hanvey told Thornton. “The information on this place came together so quickly. It was like someone took us by the hand.”
“People need to know this is a wonderful place, with adventure coming out of every tree,” said McElroy in the same article.
Though Thornton only wrote one article about them, he noted Hanvey, McElroy and Hood made an impression on him that withstood the test of time.
“There are certain people who have been together so long they can finish each other’s sentences,” said Thornton, sharing the trio were those people. “They had a ball with what they were doing – with this shared knowledge they could tap into. This matters (what they did to preserve the Ten Islands). When you think about Alabama history, Alabama is still a rural place in many areas where the past is still very much alive. That was their work. They stayed on my mind so long because of the kind of rare people they were. I can’t remember what I wrote last week, but I remember them.”
Hanvey’s son, Mike, described the trio as a relentless group determined to ensure history is not forgotten, who taught him the importance of Native American culture and influence. He recognized the specific areas of unique expertise each woman possessed, bringing her beneficial talents to the table in a collaborative effort to protect land cradling generations of valuable lessons and intriguing stories.
“The ‘Ten Island Three’ did not want the area to simply be lake covered and forgotten, as thousands of people today are fishing and swimming right above where Hernando de Soto, Andrew Jackson, Davy Crockett and Sam Houston once crossed the wild-flowing Coosa River,” said Mike. “Patsy Hanvey, Bette Sue McElroy and Charlotte Hood might not be remembered by their work but will always be remembered by the millions who will pass through and enjoy the Ten Islands Historical Park for eternity … but that’s all they wanted from the start.
“Man has the ability to build on top of things – to build dams and create lakes without a memorial to remind us the importance of preserving historic locations that came before. Things can easily be forgotten, and that takes special people with special talents to remind us of that importance. In this case, Bette Sue McElroy, Patsy Hanvey and Charlotte Hood were those people … ‘The Ten Island Three.’”
An excerpt written by Hood, McElroy and Hanvey for The Alabama Historical Association culminates the connection between the past and future ‘The Ten Island Three’ strove to protect and preserve. While ancient eras dwindle and new generations arrive, rising and falling with the transformation of the land, passionate individuals like them remain constant throughout the centuries. They act as dedicated gatekeepers of the lives, stories and history submerged in the modern world, luring lost chronicles to the surface.
“On certain days in the winter, when the river is at a low level, and no units are generating, it is still possible to walk across rocks and mud below the dam,” reads the concluding paragraph of the Ten Island Three’s 1995 submission to The Alabama Historical Association. “There you can see the prehistoric fish weir and walk around the bottom of Lock Three. But the days of wading the shoals, crossing on a ferry, walking a railroad bridge, or flagging a train to ‘get to the other side’ of the river are gone forever. As water flows through the dam, the electricity produced by Alabama Power Company lights the way for future generations.”
Ten Islands spans centuries of history
Story by Katie Bohannon Submitted photos | Archived photos
Ages before Etowah County’s Southside bridge connected cities or Alabama Power Company’s H. Neely Henry Dam furthered the development of the Coosa River, a series of 10 islands speckled the water of Northeast Alabama, one mile west of present-day Ohatchee.
The Ten Islands, coined “Oti Palin” by the Creek people who would settle there, traces back to 10,000 B.C., where a land enriched with natural resources such as shoals, river crossings and pathways flourished. Numerous historical incidents occurred on the collection of islands, linking the past to the present in significant ways.
According to John A. Walthall’s Prehistoric Indians of the Southeast, the islands were abundant with animals, including deer, raccoon, gray fox, turkey and quail, whose remnants join a collection of others proving their existence alongside pre-historic hunters and gatherers.
Earliest Ten Islands settlers built fish weirs and stone, reed or wooden traps placed within stream channels to capture fish swimming along currents. Today, one of these fish weirs – along with other artifacts – remains visible below the southernmost island.
The arrival of Hernando de Soto in 1540 altered the first-existing civilizations and charted a different course for the Ten Islands as he crossed the Coosa River, paving the way for other Europeans to follow his footsteps.
The late 1600s established a trading center for Ten Islands inhabitants, with a Frenchman named Bonnefoy journaling his voyage of the Chickasaw or Creek Path which led him to “the river of the Alibamons,” or the Coosa River. Archaeologists later discovered evidence of a town at Ten Islands, with burials revealing French, Spanish and British trade objects at the edge of Bonnefoy’s Creek Path toward the Coosa. Years following Bonnefoy, George Wood claimed the land where the town resided and named it Wood’s Island, a title it carries since 1821.
Andrew Jackson, who would become president of the United States, traveled to the Ten Islands region as a general during The Creek Civil War of 1813, marching forces from Tennessee to Gunter’s Landing (present-day Guntersville) down the Creek Path toward the Ten Islands.
Well-known historical figures served under Jackson’s command, including frontiersman Davy Crockett, future Sec. of State John Henry Eaton, former Texas Gov. Sam Houston and military general (and Jackson’s nephew) John Coffee.
Notable citizens of the Cherokee, Creek and Chickasaw nations fought with Jackson, including Cherokee citizens Richard Brown, Major Ridge, John Lowery, John Ross and the Pathkiller; Creek citizens James Fife, Spoke Hadjo, Chinnaby the ‘Great Natchez Warrior,’ and his two sons Selocta and Sarlotta Fixico; and Chickasaw leader William Colbert.
During this time, Jackson established Fort Strother at the Ten Islands, which became the destination of Coffee, Crockett and other men after winning the Battle of Tallasahatchee. As the war progressed, supplies dwindled and soldiers grew weary, an altercation between an officer and recent recruit John Wood prompted Jackson to order an action that would garner opposition for his presidential campaign. Following a confrontation where an officer required Wood to clean his untidy barracks rather than return to his post, which Wood refused, a court martial found Wood guilty of mutiny. The 18-year-old Wood was executed and buried at Fort Strother, along with many other soldiers whose graves remain there today.
Fort Strother served as the link between several significant battles in the war, including the Battle of Talladega and the Battle of Horseshoe Bend, which largely brought about a conclusion to the Creek Civil War.
After Jackson’s arrival at the Ten Islands, a series of events occurred – from the land serving as a survey point between the United States and Cherokee and Creek nations to the enforced relocation of thousands of Creek citizens from the Ten Islands region across the Coosa River to Gunter’s Landing. Walking in exile, the path they forged decades before was known as the Trail of Tears.
Throughout the eras, the Ten Islands proved the launching site of the first steamboat on the Coosa River and the site of the Civil War’s Ten Island Skirmish – during which Union Gen. Lovelle Rousseau and his forces defeated Confederate opposition and destroyed Cane Creek and Janney furnaces.
Locks intended to grant riverboats easy access through the shoals were constructed along the Coosa, beginning near Greensport and ending below Wood’s Island, after which a railroad bridge was built.
After Alabama Power Company introduced hydroelectric plant H. Neely Henry Dam in 1962, only two of the original Ten Islands remain – Wood’s Island and a small rock projection visible north of the dam.
What began as a class project of Leadership Pell City over 20 years ago has transformed into one of the biggest events of the year – Hometown Block Party.
Now presented by the Greater Pell City Chamber of Commerce, the block party has grown into an event that annually draws thousands to downtown Pell City to a free, outdoor festival featuring live music – all genres – food, games, vendors of all types and a whole lot of fun.
Held the first Saturday in June, this year’s event is set for June 4 from 3 to 9 p.m. and will stretch all around the courthouse square plus side streets in a party atmosphere that gets better every year.
The mission and vision of the block party has never wavered from its beginnings. It’s only gotten better. Its aim is to draw people downtown for all kinds of festivities with neighbors meeting neighbors, reminiscent of neighborhood block parties of years gone by.
Though the entertainment schedule is still being finalized, Chamber Director Urainah Glidewell says a crowd favorite, the WingNuts, are a go. “People love them,” she says. They play oldies from the 60s and 70s.
Another favorite, Kudzu, is also on tap. “We’ll be showcasing a lot of local talent,” says Glidewell. “This is a typical neighborhood together. It’s just a great time for people to come out and have a good time. Kick back and listen to some good music.”
Three stages for live music will be set up at various street corners, so if you have one type of music you like better than the other, just keep strolling. You’ll hear it.
Folks also will have a choice from a wide variety of vendors, offering everything from food, clothing and jewelry to turtles and lizards.
“It wouldn’t be the block party without the turtle man,” laughed Glidewell. “He comes every year.” She says he sells his critters in a variety of sizes.
Just walking down the street during the festival is an experience unto itself. “The aroma from all the food cooking is wonderful — cheesecake, cookies, barbecue, sausage,” she says, naming a few on the menu.
An annual feature of the Pell City block party is the car show. Entry fee is $10 a car. Part of the proceeds will go this year to Mileena Painter, a local girl who is battling leukemia. Entrants can sign up as late as the day of event.
Story by Carol Pappas Photos courtesy of Downtown Gadsden Inc.
Sometimes, the best laid business plans are the ones you never intended.
Just ask Kay Moore, executive director of Downtown Gadsden Inc. Fourteen years after First Friday kicked off, thousands of people from all over the Southeast now make downtown Gadsden their destination point on the first Friday of each month from April to October from 6 to 9 p.m.
Downtown blocks close on those Friday afternoons to make way for food trucks, musical entertainment, performers, cars, cars and more cars. And where those attractions set up shop – up and down Broad Street and beyond – crowds have followed. “It’s not exactly what we planned when we started it,” Moore said. “It may not be what it started out to be, but it probably is what it is supposed to be.”
It would be hard to argue with that conclusion. Six to eight thousand people from all over the Southeast head to downtown Gadsden for the car show alone. Add to that more throngs from the city and surrounding region, and what it has become is one huge success story by any measure.
The motive was to get downtown Gadsden discovered or rediscovered. Like countless other places, downtown was once the thriving heart of any city. But malls and big box stores lured shoppers and diners elsewhere, and downtowns paid the price.
Determined to bring their downtown back from the brink, a handful of visionaries in Gadsden saw the potential for a rebound and set out to make it happen.
The forerunner was Sylvia Smith, who was looking for ways to attract customers to her Stone Market on Court Street. She started having entertainment and other attractions spaced up to the 400 block, and it started spreading from there to Broad Street.
Two years later, the doll shop owner, who had friends in the car show circuit, helped introduce the car show to First Fridays, the engine that drives the successes that followed. “It has exploded since then,” Moore said. “It’s what put Gadsden on the map.”
Cars of all makes and models – old, new, vintage – line the streets. Passersby stroll through, pausing to get a better look at one that catches their eye. Food vendors handle the overflow of hungry attendees from local restaurants, cafes, bars and pizza joints. The local eateries alone can’t handle the growing crowds, so food vendors are the only non-local vendors allowed in.
There’s plenty more than cars and food. Like music? Take your pick. There’s gospel, rock, easy listening, jazz and country performers strategically placed throughout downtown. “You walk down the street, and you hear what you want to hear,” Moore said, referencing the variety.
But the centerpiece of it all is still the motive – downtown shopping and dining. “It has a huge economic impact on merchants,” she noted. “They may not ring the cash register that night, but they come back.” It is not unusual to hear merchants recount how their business increased in the days that follow. “The next Saturday, they may come from Birmingham, Huntsville or Centre. They come back because of something they saw at First Friday.”
It’s seen as a return to a time of building relationships with the people you do business with, coming back to the city’s heart and discovering its soul. It’s a return to a nostalgic, main street experience.
While it may be tempting to order online, that’s the “easy way out,” Moore explained. “We want people to remember that we’re here – check out our gift shops and restaurants.”
With a nod to Downtown Gadsden’s tag line, it’s “small town, small shops, big treasures and great tastes” all rolled into one stroll down main street. “You’ll find something you didn’t know you needed,” Moore said. “I promise you that.”
Editor’s Note:First Friday returns April 1 at 6 p.m. For more information, go to: downtowngadsden.com
Story by Elaine Hobson Miller Photos by Graham Hadley Submitted photos
What’s in a name? When it’s attached to a place, it often gives a hint of its history. Take Coal City, for example. You might think it is or was a coal-mining town. And you’d be right. Later, a guy tried to change its name to Wattsville, and there’s a story behind that. In the beginning, however, it was called Broken Arrow, after the creek by the same name. And that name recalls its Native American origins, and even connects you with Broken Arrow, Okla.
According to legend, a Native American brave shot a deer in the area and in the animal’s death throes, it broke the brave’s arrow. When he saw the broken arrow, he yelled, “Theitka,” (or Thle Teka, depending upon which source you’re reading). That meant “Broken Arrow” in his language. Thus, that area became known as Broken Arrow.
Actually, the area’s Native American heritage goes back a few thousand years, according to Rusty Jessup, amateur historian and mayor of nearby Riverside. “Most archeologists believe there was a very large Native American settlement in the area of Broken Arrow Creek, where it goes into the Coosa River,” Jessup says. “We think it was 1,000 to 1,200 B.C. I’ve talked to some people who say it was one of the largest settlements at that time, with as many as 10,0000 to 15,000 people who lived at that intersection over a span of 200 to 300 years.”
As far as Jessup knows, no Native American burial grounds have been discovered in the area, but there could have been some that went underwater when the Coosa River was dammed to form Logan Martin Lake in 1965. “There’s good fishing there. It always was one of the cleaner tributaries into the Coosa, but also one of the shallow ones,” he says. “You can’t navigate a long way on Broken Arrow Creek.”
Fast forward to the founding of Broken Arrow, Okla. That Tulsa suburb was established in 1902 by a Creek tribe that was moved to Oklahoma from Broken Arrow in St. Clair County, Ala.
The brave, whose cry became the name of the creek, may have been part of a mixed band of settlers and friendly Native Americans hunting on the land of the area’s first white settler. John Bolton arrived in the 1820s. According to a Feb. 21, 1974, St. Clair Observer newspaper story by Mattie Lou Teague Crow, Bolton followed an Native American trail which ran from the Creek village of Cataula (Ashville) to Cropwell.
He established a homestead at the intersection of another Native American trail running from the Coosa River to today’s Friendship community. Bolton’s log cabin was approximately where Old Coal City Road crosses Alabama Highway 144 today. The area became known as Bolton’s Crossroads. Again, the history is in the name.
In 1839, Broken Arrow Post Office was established in the home of its first postmaster, Francis Barnes Walker. Before that, area residents walked or rode over Backbone Mountain to Ashville to get their mail. Walker held his post until the Civil War began.
Long before the Civil War, though, an Englishman named William Gould discovered coal in the area. “The small amount he mined was hauled by wagon six miles to the Coosa River, and from there it was floated to Selma or Wetumpka by flatboat,” wrote Mrs. Crow in her book, History of St. Clair County. He formed Ragland Mines Company in 1854 and owned other coal lands in Shelby County.
Eventually, four major mines were formed in the area: Dirty Dozen, Coal City, Broken Arrow and Marion. Mrs. Crow reports that some 600 to 700 miners worked at Coal City, often on overtime. At some point, other seams were dug at Rutille, Klondike, Cross-Eyed Seven, Glen Mines and Boozer.
After the Civil War, a gentleman named George Washington Daugdrill (one source spells it “Daughdrille”) moved his family from Demopolis. Although he had lost most of his fortune during the war, he scraped together enough cash and credit to buy land and invest in the mining business at Broken Arrow.
When the Daugdrills moved into their log cabin, they brought the rosewood and mahogany furniture they had purchased when they lived in France. Julia August Daugdrill also brought her piano and harp, entertaining settlers with Bach and Beethoven when they visited the cabin.
During the years that it was a rip-roaring mining town, the community had a big warehouse, barber shops, a commissary, a livery stable, a number of stores, a pool hall, a city hall and jail, and at least one hotel. An unattributed, typed paragraph with the date, March 12, 1884, appears in the Coal City vertical file at the Pell City Public Library. It states that the “Broken Arrow Hotel, (of) which Mr. John Laney is Proprietor, is second to no hotel in the county. This place (Coal City) has nine stores, two saloons, three physicians, two saw and grist mills with the best black-smith in the state.”
Apparently, the area had its bloody side, too. A Letter to the Editor of the Southern Aegis, printed July 15, 1885, bemoans the lawlessness of the area. It mentions a man killing the cook at the Broken Arrow Hotel, and says the proprietor of the place, “while drunk,” shot at another man a couple of weeks later. “It is a violation of law to sell liquor here,” the anonymous letter writer says. “Yet one John Lany openly sells it and in all above shooting scrapes, liquor was the foundation.” The writer mentions other shootings, along with gambling, and wondered why laws go unenforced in the area.
In 1883, the Daugdrill family sold its mining interest to John Postell, who built the East and West Railroad to haul the coal out. The E&W was a narrow-gauge affair that ran from Cartersville and Cedartown, Ga., to Broken Arrow. Seaboard Air Line Railroad eventually bought Postell’s rail lines as part of its new system that ran from Birmingham to Atlanta and points beyond and converted it to broad gauge tracks.
Another anonymous writer of a Southern Aegis article dated July 27, 1887, saysthat the timber around Broken Arrow was plentiful and equal to any. “Sawmills are eating their way into the forests, and St. Clair timber is transformed into handsome residences, factories, etc.,” the article states.
The Aeigis writer brags on the number of acres of timbered pine lands in the area and says there were about a dozen mills along the line of the Georgia Pacific Railroad and the E&W Railroad, within seven miles of Broken Arrow. “Their aggregate output exceeds in value of $1,000 per day, probably $1,500 per day,” he writes.
Some of the area’s timber probably went into its churches, homes and businesses, such as Harkey’s Chapel, a Methodist church that began as a log building in 1830. It was named after its first pastor, the Rev. David Harkey. Another early church was Broken Arrow Baptist, established in 1890, and Refuge Baptist, 1860.Each of those churches are still meeting today, albeit in more modern structures. The Daugdrills donated land for the Broken Arrow Cemetery, which is now across the road from the church. The first burial was their infant grandson, “Little Jim” Daugdrill.
Another major player in the coal mining industry was Watt T. Brown, who had extensive land holdings in St. Clair County. He reorganized the Ragland Coal Company in 1896.But it wasn’t until early 1929 that Brown began a series of name changes, a feat that sticks in the craws of many old-timers who live in Coal City today. He managed to get the Coal City Post Office changed to the Wattsville Post Office. Soon afterward, the Seaboard Railroad changed the name of its station, and a state geologist re-designated the coalfield as Wattsville Coal Basin.
Nevertheless, most older residents of the area, and some younger ones, too, still cringe at the name “Wattsville.” They say the town doesn’t exist, except in the names of a post office, a volunteer fire department and a church or two. “Technically, there is no Wattsville,” says Amber Michael, office manager of the Wattsville Water Authority. “There are post office boxes, but that’s the only place you can get mail labeled Wattsville.” An internet search turns up evidence of Wattsville being a separate community from Coal City, but if they’re separate, they run together and maybe overlap at some point.
Two iron-ore mines opened in Coal City in the early 1900s, bringing more people into the area. Coke ovens were built somewhere near the Edward Layton homesite and Shiloh Baptist Church, according to Mattie Lou Teague Crow. They belched “evil-smelling, lung-choking black smoke,” she says.
Some sources say John Postell changed the town’s name from Broken Arrow to Coal City in the late 1800s, while others say it was unofficially called that as far back as the 1850s. Either way, it wasn’t until 1910 that the town, comprising a mile radius from the old Broken Arrow Bridge (St. Clair 234), was officially incorporated. Wattsville was never incorporated, and Coal City later became an unincorporated hamlet again.
The Wattsville/Coal City communities had a succession of eight schools, according to Jerry Smith in the October 2012 issue of LakeLife’s sister magazine, Discover the Essence of St. Clair. The first few met in various buildings and went by several names. The first Coal City School, built on a hilltop in 1919, taught all 12 grades. Its last graduation was held in 1929.
After that, Smith says, Coal City School, also known as Rabbit Hop, served only elementary grades until it burned in 1951. The last Coal City School building is on U.S. 231 near Shirley’s Mainline Barbecue, where it houses the St. Clair County Head Start program.
Coal City schools produced some major sportsmen, including Eddie Martin of the New York Yankees, Darrell Pratt of the Detroit Tigers, and Clyde Warren, a 1925 All-American for Auburn University.
Electricity came to Coal City/Wattsville in the 1930s, when the only fully paved roads in the entire county were U.S. 78 through Pell City and U.S. 411 through Ashville. According to one source, the mines started drying up around 1915, with the last one shutting down in 1919. But another source says that Watt T. Brown operated a coal mine on Pope’s Chapel Road in 1919 or 1920.
“All of Coal City was tar and gravel (roads) until five years ago,” says Walter Callahan, manager of the Pleasant Valley Quick Stop. “Originally they were just dirt roads. Now they’re paved with asphalt.”
Callahan, 70, remembers swimming in the Mining Hole, a seemingly bottomless pit that filled with water over the years after the mines closed. It was located off Highway 144, one block north of Broken Arrow Creek. “As kids we’d jump into the Hole with a big rock to see how far down we could sink,” he says. “But we never got past 17 feet before dropping the rocks. It was ice cold at that depth, even in the heat of summer.”
The Mining Hole has been on private property for several years, according to Callahan. He says when the hole was being drained so it could be filled in, several old cars were found at the bottom. Folks figured they had been stolen, stripped and dumped into the hole.
On a recent tour of the area, Callahan, whose family settled there in 1827, pointed out various places of interest. “My grandad, Alma Reid Alverson, farmed 20 acres just across the street from the Quick Stop, and my Uncle Tom Barber had 50 acres on the hill just before you get to Broken Arrow Church. Much of it was planted in watermelons that he gave away. Folks would stop and ask whether they could pick a few melons, and he’d say, ‘Sure, just don’t crush any.’”
Callahan motions toward the former home of Roy and Helen Pope, still in the Pope family, on Depot Street. “They had cows and everybody got their milk from them in the 1940s, 1950s and into the 1960s,” he says. He stops at a little hole in the ground called Arnold Springs. He says it’s one of two springs in the area that have never run dry. “People brought their water jugs and filled them here,” he says. “Lots of watercress grew around it.”
Pleasant Grove Baptist Church (formerly Possum Trot Baptist, which is what many old-timers still call it), also on Depot Street, is bordered on one side by Police Camp Road. “It used to end at a police shooting range,” Callahan explains. “It’s on private property now.” He remembers traveling down nearby Sugar Farms Road about a mile, then having to cross through a swamp. “There was no bridge, you literally drove through a swamp,” he says.
The concrete bridge crossing Broken Arrow Creek on Refuge Road (St. Clair 234), just off Center Star Road (St. Clair 45), is still known as Broken Arrow Bridge. Before it was paved, it was made of railroad cross ties. “There was a big hole on one side, and you had to drive right through the center to keep your tires out of it,” Callahan says. “When I was six or seven, my mom took me fishing right beside that bridge. I remember she caught a nice mud catfish that she cooked for dinner.”
On Old Coal City Road, about half a mile before it reachesI-20, are the remains of the original Coal City Water Works. All that’s left are a small, red building that looks like a backyard shed, a small pond and some pipes. Across the road is Florida Street, named after Stovall Florida, who had a sawmill there in the 1940s. “His was the only business in the area during the Depression,” Callahan says.
There was an area bootlegger in Callahan’s younger days, when St. Clair was still a dry county. He lived on what is now Stone Road, which turns off U.S. 231 South across from the present Wattsville Free Will Baptist Church and meanders behind C & R Feed & Supply. “As long as you could drive a car to his place, you could get a six-pack of beer for $3.50,” Callahan says. “He’d meet you at your car, then walk back and hand it to you. He also had moonshine.”
And what of Broken Arrow Creek? Although no one seems to know where this five-mile-long stream begins, it ends at the Coosa River, next door to and just below where Broken Arrow Creek Road dead ends. Russell and Shane Locklear are building their parents a house on that promontory and can point out the creek’s mouth from their yard.
“There used to be a restaurant down there by the mouth of the creek, but it has been turned into a lake home,” Russell says. His friend, John Barry, says the restaurant was known as The Cafe, and operated in the 1950s and 1960s. “It was at the end of River Ranch Road,” Barry says.
Locklear says the fishing is good on Broken Arrow Creek. “It has been listed among the top ten crappie-fishing places for last 10 years,” he says.
Bass fishing is good there, too, says Zeke Gossett, a rookie pro B.A.S.S tour member and a fishing guide. “Broken Arrow Creek, located just above historic Lock 4, is filled with stump flats and shoreline grass during summer pool,” he says. “It provides both deep and shallow water for fish to live in. It generally holds fish year ‘round but my best experiences in Broken Arrow have come in late summer/early fall.” He says the back portion of the creek water usually stays a little cooler in the late summer months, which attracts baitfish along with the bass as well.
Arrowhead searching used to be profitable along the Coosa near the mouth of Broken Arrow Creek, according to collector Roger Pateof Pell City.
“I moved here in 1970 and started hunting the creek, walking the riverbank and creek bank and crappie fishing,” says Pate. “Native Americans in summertime used to come off the hills and places and would live on the river because it was a good food source. They ate the mussels, and you could sometimes find piles of the shells. Sometimes you could find some artifacts, too.”
Pate says he doesn’t see the mussel shells or arrowheads much anymore, though. “You have to wait until wintertime when they let the water down,” he says. “When it rains and gets real cold, ice forms and rain washes the ice and dirt away. But you’re now walking in other people’s footprints, so hunting isn’t as good as it used to be.”
The coal mines may be gone, the train depot demolished, the arrowhead hunting just a memory. But Broken Arrow Creek is still fishable, and Coal City isn’t going away. It’s worth the time to drive some back roads and try to picture how things used to be.
That means that when Logan Martin Lake begins its seasonal rise in April from winter level to summer pool of 465 feet, it won’t return to its traditional winter level of 460 feet come December. Instead, the lake will remain at 462 feet during the winter from now on, giving residents and lake enthusiasts two extra feet and in a number of cases, year-round access to the lake.
Lisa Martindale, Reservoir Management manager at Alabama the decision means that residents who spend time on those lakes will enjoy higher water levels beginning in winter 2022-2023.
That’s welcome news to residents like John Junkins of Pell City, whose boatlift is a few inches shy of enabling him to launch his boat from December to early April. “I can’t wait,” he said. “You know how the weather is in Alabama. We could wear shorts on Christmas Day, and it would have been awesome to be able to take a pontoon cruise. We are ecstatic about this decision.”
So is Eric Mackey of Mackey Docks. “I will love a higher level of water as it will make the lake more usable for more people with shallow water. I wished they kept it full pool nine months and drained it to winter level three months, but that is my opinion.”
For his pier-building business, it means “we will be able to access more sites with a barge now with higher water levels.”
And then, there’s the aesthetics of it all. “The lake will even look better than when it’s low and you can only see dry lake beds,” Mackey said.
It’s welcome news for residents up and down the lake who had been lobbying for it for years. During the Coosa relicensing process, there were overwhelming requests by stakeholders to increase the winter pool levels at Weiss, Neely Henry, and Logan Martin for recreational purposes. Alabama Power worked with the FERC and the US Army Corp of Engineers to incorporate these requests, a spokesman for the company said.
Through engineering studies, Alabama Power made the determination that with operational changes, the lakes could be operated at the higher winter pool elevations, and the US Army Corp of Engineers agreed.
Neely Henry is a bit different. It has had a higher level for years. Neely Henry once had a three-foot fluctuation from summer to winter pool, but studies showed that with operational changes, the lake could be operated at the higher winter pool elevation and the US Army Corp of Engineers agreed.
Neely Henry operated under a variance with the USACE for many years allowing for a 1-foot fluctuation between summer and winter and during the USACE Water Control Manual Updates in 2015, the rule curve with the 1-foot fluctuation between summer and winter pool for Neely Henry was incorporated.
The months of March and April can be the most fun months of the year on Logan Martin. Fish are on the move, staging and getting ready to spawn or they are already spawning.
Fishing staging areas for bass on Logan Martin this time of year are the keys to success. These areas include points leading into spawning flats, shallow brush and docks. These are all great places to start your search.
I keep my approach simple when targeting these areas. My main three baits are a jig, a jerk bait and bladed jig. If the water is still on the cooler (50 to 60 degrees) side, I will target points with a jerk bait and a bladed jig. These two baits allow me to cover water until I find some active fish.
Once I feel like I’m around some active fish, I will usually reach for the jig in order to pick up a couple more bites I might have missed with the other two baits.
If the water is on the warmer side (60 to 70 degrees), I will start fishing into pockets with shallow docks and brush with the jig.
Most of the time these fish are getting ready to go on the bed and are feeding up. Fishing the conditions are important for these two months.
If you are not getting bites, keep moving!
Neely Henry
My approach to Neely Henry will differ a little from Logan Martin this time of year. My main three baits will stay the same, but I will add a swim jig to the mix during March and April.
I will still target points leading into pockets and fishing docks. I fish these docks with the bladed jig and jig. When targeting points, I will fish these with a jerk bait.
Where I bring the swim into play is in the grass that lines the banks of Neely Henry. The grass usually starts growing again around the end of March.
If the water is on a warming trend (60 to 70 degrees), I will fish the grass, targeting those fish getting ready to spawn with a swim jig.
Again, fish the conditions, and you will have success on Neely Henry during these two months.
Editor’s Note: Zeke Gossett of Zeke Gossett Fishing grew up on the Coosa River and Logan Martin Lake. He is a former collegiate champion and is now a professional angler on the B.A.S.S. tour circuit and is a fishing guide.Learn more about Zeke at: zekegossettfising.com